Ciao bella Italia

Whatever the case, Polignano a Mare is the place where sky and water touch. If tourists are lucky, they might get hold of a table perched high up in the Grotta Palazzese, a restaurant set into the cliff half way between the sea and the town where diners are of course greeted by the sounds of “Volare”. After strolling through the streets of the old town, perhaps they will stay in the hotel of the same name or in a small B&B with its own roof terrace, ending the day there with a primitivo from Salento before waking in the morning and enjoying their first wonderful cappuccino of the day.

A relaxed city: Bari

Having a car in Puglia is practical, but visitors shouldn’t discount the excellent railway network along the coast. It takes just 30 minutes to get to Bari. With its palm-fringed boulevards, southern Italy's second largest city after Naples resembles a sophisticated resort. There are two sides to this industrial city with its own university: it is lively but also very relaxed. Definitely not to be missed on a tour: the Basilica San Nicola in which the relics of St Nicholas repose – an attraction for east and west. The way in which a Russian chant from the crypt fills the entire nave is unforgettable. The pilgrims sang with great fervour – at least they did before the coronavirus. All ears: the local speciality is orecchiette, pasta in the shape of little ears made from durum wheat flour, salt and lukewarm water.

A hidden gem for gourmets: Trani

Further north, Trani is a hidden gem where people long to be. The town, constructed from light-coloured limestone, local Pietra Tranese, and positioned around a sheltered bay, could hardly be more inviting with its palaces, churches and gourmet restaurants. There is activity at the harbour throughout the day, especially when the fishermen unload their catch that various restaurants on the harbour wall turn into exquisite meals. One example is “Gallo”, which despite its French-sounding name serves up first-class Puglian cuisine. Protected from the wind, guests sit in a glass box and enjoy Polpo or Risotto al Limone. Naturally the wine comes from Puglia: a Pietrabianca Castel del Monte. If you want to go one better, you could try “Quintessenza”, the Michelin-starred restaurant run by Stefano Di Gennaro and his brother. They create and skilfully enhance traditional dishes. Distances are short in Trani, so it’s well worth putting your phone away and going where the lanes in the old town take you. At some point everyone finds themselves in front of the cathedral. It rises above the sea like a shield warding off bad weather and promising ships a safe journey home: the cathedral is a true wonder, a little like Puglia itself which has something for everyone: sun lovers can enjoy the spring weather between old olive groves, bays and steep coasts, culture lovers will never tire of looking at historical monuments, and everyone else can enjoy the extraordinary food. The best thing you can do is enjoy all of it together.