Divine palate
It’s an increasingly regular occurrence: your guests arrive and instead of bringing wine, they hand over a bottle of olive oil. We have been embracing Mediterranean cuisine for many years now and gourmets rave about cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil from Italy. But what are the key points to look for here? A brief introduction to the world of good olive oils.
Harvest
The olive harvest is in full swing. From October to the end of December, olive farmers are bringing in this year’s crop of fruit. Traditional hand-picking uses the ‘brucatura’ method: the branches and twigs are struck to make the olives fall down into nets set up below. The outward appearance of the olives gives a clue to their inner value. Their skins vary in colour from brilliant green through violet to black. Ideally, this colour change should apply to a little over half of the olives, as this means the polyphenols have reached their peak. These bioactive substances (colourings, flavourings, tannins) are crucial elements of the flavour and nutritional value. They also act as natural antioxidants (see HEALTH).
Health
Olive oil was highly valued by Roman emperors, and now we know why. Gentle cold pressing unleashes a host of good nutrients: antioxidants counteract the ageing processes and unsaturated fatty acids are essential to health. The special composition of different fatty acids is especially good for our cardiovascular system. However, that requires the oil to be cold-pressed at temperatures below 27 degrees. This is the only way to retain the valuable ingredients.
Varieties
Olive oil is like the world of wine, only more bewildering: if you order a “Riesling”, you are likely to be asked: “From the Moselle or the Nahe, from Austria or South Tyrol?” Not only is the variety important, but also the region, the winemaker and the vineyard. And naturally the vintage too. In Italy there are said to be 500 varieties of olive, which puts this country well out in front in global terms, including when it comes to the variety of flavours. Olive oil is not just olive oil. Some key varieties are – together with their preferred area of cultivation: Casaliva (Lake Garda), Coratina (Apulia), Grignano (Veneto), Itrana (Latium), Moraiolo (Tuscany) and Tonda Iblea (Sicily). As with grape varieties, there are huge differences in aroma, flavour and intensity. It all comes down to individual taste preferences.
Classification
How can any real comparison be made between the 500 varieties and countless regions? Fortunately, alongside the different AWARDS and COMPETITIONS there is one basic category. In order to be labelled as “extra virgin”, olive oils must combine three components: fruity, bitter and pungent. This doesn’t mean that all three have to show equal prominence, but they should all be present in the aroma or the taste. As soon as an oil fails to meet all three criteria, it is downgraded to a lower class.
Competitions/Awards
Competitions offer an initial orientation. Here too, Italy’s olive farmers perform extremely well. In 2017 their olive oils garnered a total of 124 awards in what is arguably the foremost international competition, the New York International Olive Oil Competition (featuring around 900 producers from 27 nations). Awards are also handed out by, for example, the Italian wine guide “Gambero Rosso” and “Der Feinschmecker” with its Olio Award. Consumers who are unable to take part in a tasting themselves can be guided by the award winners and gradually learn which are their own personal favourites. After all, there’s only ever one criterion when it comes to taste: your own palate.
