Gorgeous Genoa
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Genoa is the hidden gem of the Italian Riviera. Italy’s sixth largest city is slowly shaking off its image as an industrial metropolis and returning to its original roots: a place full of character and contrasts. In mid-March, when the spring sunshine dances across the Gulf of Genoa, the city comes back to life. The temperatures are mild, the tourist masses have not yet arrived, and the colours are vibrant and fresh.
To walk through the harbour city is to take a journey back in time. In the Via Garibaldi, formerly known as Strada Maggiore and Strade Nuova, majestic Renaissance and Baroque mansions built of stone bear witness to the wealth of Genoese merchant families. Even today, the old harbour has the beating heart of a maritime republic which once fought with Venice to gain sovereignty over the Mediterranean Sea. The Porto Antico, redesigned by Renzo Piano in 1992 for the World Exhibition, is now a lively quarter full of promenades, cafes, museums and the famous aquarium. Locals and visitors alike stroll past historic warehouses while large cruise liners moor up in the background.
Yet away from the modern harbour front, a different Genoa reveals itself – ancient and secretive. The medieval old town is a labyrinth of crooked alleys, the notorious Caruggi, where centuries of history rub up against the present day. Magnificent churches rise up next to traditional trattorias, and tiny bars nestle between timeless craft workshops. Cracked facades tell the tales of times gone by while the aromas of freshly baked focaccia and homemade pesto fill the air.
Genoa is not the most beautiful city in Italy or the simplest – but that is exactly what makes it so charming. Scratch beneath the surface of “La Superba” and you will reap rich rewards: an authentic atmosphere, helpful locals and the inimitable charm of a city that is almost impossible to fathom.
There are accommodation options to suit all tastes – from lopsided Airbnb palazzi and cosy guesthouses to elegant hotels. The water is never far away: whether it’s the city beach at Pegli, the picturesque fishing village of Boccadasse or the Cinque Terre, just an hour away by train, the Mediterranean is a constant presence.
And then there is the Ligurian cuisine: fresh pesto, traditionally made using a marble pestle and mortar, served with pasta and freshly caught seafood. This never tastes better than it does here, in this city that doesn’t reveal itself to its visitors straight away – but which, once discovered, will never let you go. A word of warning, however: Genoa was named as one of the ten best cities of 2025 in Lonely Planet’s “Best in Travel 2025” (https://www.lonelyplanet.de/best-in-travel-2025.html). Get there quick to beat the crowds!
